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Overview
Recovered from deep within the vault, this release brings together three Japanese selvedge denims held back in limited quantity. Drawn from a rare convergence of opportunity and material, this release brings together three distinct fabrics each with their own presence, weight, and a history woven into every yard.
Each pair carries the elite hallmarks of true selvedge - texture that reveals itself over time, fit that forms with wear, and fades that develop according to how you move through the world. No two will age the same.
This batch includes selvedge details on the continuous fly and welted coin pockets, chainstitched hems and waistbands, and flat-felled inseams and back rise. Invented in San Francisco by David Neustadter and patented in 1877, the continuous fly increases the durability and extends the lifetime of pants and overalls by strengthening the garment at the point where the two inner seams meet.
Produced in small, carefully controlled batches on antique shuttle looms, selvedge denim has a tighter, denser weave than regular denim and its clean-finished edges are prized for their character and heritage.
- Desolation: Nihon Menpu 13.5oz, 100% Cotton, Bull Denim, Red Selvedge ID
- Black: Kaihara 13oz, 100% Cotton, Bull Denim, Blue Selvedge ID
- Siege: Kuroki 15oz, 100% Cotton, Orange Selvedge ID
Released in limited numbers for Presidents’ Day weekend, these selvedge Intercepts mark a singular moment of material and execution. Once the run is complete, the story moves on.
nihon menpu
First established in 1917, specializing in indigo dyed fabrics, Nihon Menpu began to focus exclusively on denim production in 1985. At a time when denim production qualities were declining in favor of rapid mass production, Nihon Menpu devoted themselves to producing exceptional denim using vintage Toyoda shuttle looms. Their otaku-like devotion to quality and traditional craftsmanship yields some of the most extraordinary denim available.
HIGHLY CAPABLE
utility reinforcement
TAD signature diamond knife reinforcement extends the usable lifetime of your jeans by providing a second layer of protection for knife and tool clips.
easy access
Concealed pockets on the yoke can secure your phone or a spare magazine comfortably, even when seated.
chainstitched hem
Traditional plain hem for easy alterations, chainstitched for classic roping details.
Triple Needle Arcuate
We stick with the rule of three. Primary, secondary, tertiary. Three fullers on knife handles, triple needle stitching on back pockets.
Hidden Triple Needle Stitching
Selvedge outseams are busted and triple needle chainstitched, and outseams are triple needle flat felled. To maintain a traditional look, indigo Intercepts use 2 colormatched threads and one gold thread for both in- and outseams.
ONE-PIECE Continuous Fly
Invented in San Francisco by David Neustadter and patented in 1877, the continuous fly increases the durability and extends the lifetime of pants and overalls by strengthening the garment at the point where the two inner seams meet.
No-scratch Reinforcement
Rivets are cool, but they can accidentally scratch or tear things you lean on or sit in. Intercepts feature bartack reinforcements at all critical junctions.
KEYHOLE BUTTON FLY
Both sides of the continuous fly are finished with selvedge.
CARE
There are a variety of ways to safely wash raw denim. The easiest is to turn them inside out and wash them in cold water in the washing machine using a gentle detergent, such as Woolite.
We recommend washing them separately the first few times to avoid any potential for bleeding dye onto your other clothes. Line dry to prolong the life of your denim.
